Lamphun: Thailand’s Time Machine
Journey through the kingdom’s oldest city, where ancient temples and vibrant traditions meet modern creativity
Words: Phoowadon Duangmee
Nestled between the Ping and Kuang rivers in northern Thailand, Lamphun is a captivating mix of history, culture, and modern charm. As Thailand’s oldest city, its roots trace back over 1,300 years to its founding in the Hariphunchai Kingdom by Queen Chamadevi. This northern province embodies a harmonious mix of Dvaravati, Mon, and Lanna heritage, drawing visitors with its timeless atmosphere and rich cultural offerings. Today, Lamphun stands as a fascinating contrast of ancient traditions and modern creativity, making it an increasingly popular destination for travellers seeking authenticity as well as dynamism.
The city’s historic core is a treasure trove for history enthusiasts. Wat Phra That Haripunchai Woramahawihan, located near the main square, is Lamphun’s crowning glory. This majestic temple, built to house a relic of the Buddha, features a striking 46-metre-high golden chedi, a masterpiece of Lanna artistry. A place of pilgrimage and devotion for centuries, this site embodies the enduring connection between Lamphun and Buddhism. Surrounding the chedi are intricately designed pagodas, ancient stone inscriptions, and ornately decorated prayer halls that showcase Dvaravati and Mon culture.
Next door to the temple lies a vibrant creative hub: The Temple House. This café and art space is a favourite among locals and visitors alike, offering a relaxed ambiance, excellent coffee, and homemade pastries – great for unwinding. It’s also a dynamic venue for art exhibitions, workshops, and cultural events, adding a modern twist to Lamphun’s heritage environment. Nearby, Thailand Chicken Rice serves up the city’s best chicken rice – perfectly tender meat paired with fragrant grains. For dessert, Aq Bur Old Town, housed in a beautifully restored 1950s heritage building, is a must-visit. Known for savoury favourites like Steamed Jasmine Rice with Hang Lay Curry but famed for its ever-changing array of house-made desserts, this charming café exemplifies Lamphun’s harmonious blend of old-world charm and contemporary tastes.
For a deeper dive into local history, head for the Hariphunchai National Museum. Here, an impressive collection of ancient artifacts – inscriptions, sculptures, ceramics, and Buddha images – open a door to the Dvaravati, Hariphunchai, and Lanna eras. Highlights include intricately carved lintels and stucco decorations that once adorned local temples. Nearby, the Urban Lamphun Museum offers a glimpse into the daily lives of the region’s people a century ago, with exhibits featuring old photographs, writing materials, and household tools. Together, these museums paint a vivid picture of Lamphun’s rich cultural legacy.
Another historical gem is Wat Chamadevi, also known as Wat Ku Kut. This ancient temple, believed to be over 750 years old, is a rare landmark of Mon architecture in Thailand. Its two prominent stupas, Chedi Suwan Chang Kot and Ratana Chedi, are adorned with intricate stucco images of the Buddha. The latter is said to enshrine the ashes of Queen Chamadevi, adding to the temple’s historic significance. Just 10 kilometres from busy downtown Lamphun, Wat Phra Phutthabat Tak Pha offers a serene escape. Perched atop a hill, this revered temple is celebrated for its sacred Buddha footprint. Its serene ambiance and sweeping views of the surrounding mountains make it a favourite among pilgrims and travellers seeking peace and tranquillity.
Lamphun’s cultural richness stretches beyond its temples and museums. In Li district, Wat Phra Phutthabat Huai Tom is the spiritual heart of the Karen community, known for their vibrant traditions and vegetarian lifestyle. Its unique laterite facade and serene atmosphere transform each December into a lively cultural festival featuring traditional hilltribe dances, local sports, and a bustling handicraft market. This celebration offers a rare opportunity to experience the warmth and hospitality of the Karen people.
Food lovers will find plenty to savour in Lamphun. Dao Khanong Restaurant, a local legend, offers authentic northern Thai dining with its traditional Khantoke meals. Dishes like Nam Prik Ong (tomato chilli dip), Kaeng Hang Lay (rich pork curry), and Kaeng Om Moo (herb-infused pork curry) showcase the bold flavours of the region. Other delicacies, such as green jackfruit salad and bamboo shoots stuffed with minced pork, highlight the diversity of Lamphun’s culinary scene.
For those seeking unique souvenirs, Lamphun’s weaving communities are a must-visit. The Yok Dok Lamphun Thai Cloth Learning and Conservation Centre invites visitors to learn traditional silk-weaving and try their hand at tie-dyeing. The shop here also offers exquisite silk products while the museum showcases the art of mulberry and silk production. Nearby, Ban Nong Ngueak’s weaving community is famed for its hand-woven cotton pillows, tablecloths, and clothes. Further north, Ban Don Luang showcases the Yong ethnic group’s renowned batik and cotton craftmanship.
From its golden chedis and ancient temples to its thriving art scene and culinary delights, Lamphun is a destination that captivates the senses. Whether sipping coffee in a heritage café, exploring centuries-old relics, or shopping for hand-woven textiles, visitors are sure to leave with lasting memories of this enchanting province. Lamphun’s ability to blend its storied past with modern creativity makes it a place that lingers in the hearts of all who travel there.