Laab Unleashed

Imagine a salad that’s anything but ordinary, packed with spices, herbs and flavours that tell the story of Thai traditions. That’s Laab!

Words: Sarita Urupongsa 

Despite somewhat mysterious origins, the spicy, flavour-packed meat salad known as Laab has secured a treasured status in Thai cuisine. A traditional staple in the North and Northeast, this flavour-packed dish was once reserved for special occasions like merit-making ceremonies, weddings and funerals. Back then, preparing Laab was more than just a solo task, requiring a village-wide effort – starting with the butchering of a cow or pig.

While cherished across the whole of Thailand, the flavours of Laab can vary significantly from one region to another. Laab in the North of Thailand is a bold and intense experience, characterised by earthy aromas from local spices like Ma Kwaen (similar to Sichuan pepper), long peppers and nutmeg. In contrast, the more widely available Northeast version is known for its balanced mix of roasted rice, spices and a subtle, tangy finish.

These days, Laab appears on menus spanning street vendors and family-owned eateries to high-end restaurants in the glitziest neighbourhoods.

The word “Laab” in the Northern dialect means to “finely minced meat”. True to its name, a good dish of Laab requires the meat – whether chicken, pork, beef, duck, buffalo or even fish – to be finely chopped. Exceptions include a version called Goi, in which bite-sized pieces of meat are blanched and then seasoned.

Herbs and greens are essential components of Laab, adding both aroma and freshness. Spring onions, coriander, shallots and lemon balm leaves not only enhance the flavour but also help balance the dish’s meatiness. The seasoning is where Laab truly shines: a combination of chilli peppers, fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and, in some recipes, a splash of umami from fermented fish sauce or dried chillies. Traditionally, this hearty salad is served with sticky rice and bitter-tasting local greens like Siamese neem, young acacia and wild betel leaves.

Over the years, Laab has inspired numerous spinoffs. Think Laab Nam Tok made with grilled, fatty cuts of meat, or Laab Khua, a gutsy version with boiled offal that is then roasted to perfection. More playful versions like Laab with glass noodles and fried Laab balls have become common sights in Northeastern-style restaurants.

Whether you prefer it fiery and aromatic or tasty-tangy, Laab remains a beloved, versatile dish that continues to evolve and delight tastebuds nationwide.