A Bazaar Portrait of Ayutthaya

Journey through history and culture in the bustling markets of Thailand’s former capital

Words Sarita Urupongsa

Just a short trip from Bangkok lies Ayutthaya, a city renowned for its rich heritage as Siam’s former capital. Its historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, preserves the remnants of its glorious past in magnificent ruins stretching as far as the eye can see.

Once famed for its natural abundance, Ayutthaya still embodies the old Thai motto: “fish swim in the water and rice grows in the fields”. As a living link to those abundant times, local markets offer an immersive experience of the city’s cultural highlights – its unique charm that keeps tourists coming back to this historic province.

Kongkhong Market
The Art of Barter

In days gone by, this location served as a customs tax checkpoint for cargo ships visiting Ayutthaya. As a global crossroads, the area thrived on bustling commerce and exotic foreign goods shipped from abroad, leading to a vibrant barter market where vendors displayed their wares on the ground, inviting buyers to bend down and examine whatever caught their eye.

This intimate bond between customers and vendors inspired the name “Kongkhong”, meaning “Bend Down Market”. Today, vendors preserve the market’s personal touch – one of the defining characteristics of Thai culture – by donning vintage costumes. Women wear traditional fitted-sleeve tops and long skirts, while men opt for round-neck tops and old-fashioned pants.

Foodies will find something to satisfy every craving, whether it’s a full meal, snacks, drinks, or fresh produce. One corner is dedicated to dining and lounging around vintage tables, while the shopping zone showcases traditional artefacts and a wide array of Thai crafts, including handmade items, traditional musical instruments, toys, and amulets.

Arrive early to catch the market’s 10am procession, featuring traditional dancers performing to the beat of long drums in homage to the holy spirit of Grandfather Sangsom and King Naresuan the Great. But don’t miss traditional treats like giant rice crackers, steamed coconut custard in tiny cups, classic coffee, traditional Tom Yum noodles, and grilled featherback fish.

Open Thursday- Sunday 9am-4pm, Ban Sangsom, Moo 5, Khanon Luang Sub-District, Bang Pa-in District, Ayutthaya;
www.facebook.com/kongkhongmarket

Photos: Kongkhong Market

Luang Pu Thuat Market
Savouring The Sacred

Visitors paying homage to the revered Luang Pu Thuat (Venerable Grandfather) are advised to check out this charming market – a delightful pit stop on your pilgrimage. Nestled along the Asian Highway, this colourful bazaar is a must-visit for travellers seeking a taste of authentic Thai culture.

With its big, bold sign guiding the way, you won’t miss this vibrant destination. Step through the entrance and you find yourself in a bustling alleyway adorned with shops, souvenir stalls, and tantalising foodie booths. Despite the lively atmosphere, the market retains a cosy charm that makes it easy to navigate. Inside lies a treasure trove of local delicacies and traditional décor, with cosy huts made from hay and traditional dessert demos to tempt your taste buds!

Need a breather? The market offers shaded resting areas where you can kick back, relax, and soak it all in. For added fun, check out the Street Performance Zone, where talented performers showcase the captivating arts of traditional Thai games, music, and dance – perfectly complementing the laid-back yet energetic vibe of the market.

Food lovers will rejoice at highlights ranging from crunchy shitake rice crackers and velvety egg custards to refreshing sapodilla ice cream, and delightful traditional donuts.

Open daily 7am-5pm, Luang Pu Thuat Maharat Buddhist Park, Ban Mai Sub-District, Maharat District, Ayutthaya; www.facebook.com/TheBigLuangPhorThuad

Ayothaya Floating Market
Culture and Commerce

This market encapsulates the soul of Ayutthaya, artfully preserving the rich tapestry of Thai culture. The bustling stalls reflect the lifestyle of yesteryear, showcasing everything from beautiful clothing and traditional performances to timeless artefacts and exquisite architecture that pay homage to the old capital.

Covering over 50 rai (about 20 football fields), the market is divided into 16 distinct zones, each named after one of the province’s 16 districts, with a lively floating market at its heart. Food may be the star attraction here, but don’t miss out on the market’s myriad cultural activities! Snap a souvenir selfie in traditional attire, admire the breath-taking scenery from atop an elephant, or take a leisurely boat ride along the river. History buffs should catch the spectacular daily light and sound show, which brings Ayutthaya’s rich past to life.

And for the gastronomes among you, don’t leave without indulging in fragrant coconut ice cream, fresh coconut rolls, and perfectly grilled river prawns – each bite a delicious taste of this stunning locale.

Open daily 9am-6pm, Phai Ling Sub-District, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Ayutthaya;

Photos: Ayothaya Floating Market

Tha Ka Rong Temple Floating Market
Charming Simplicity

Nestled on the picturesque banks of the Chao Phraya River, the stunning Tha Ka Rong Temple stands as a timeless sentinel from the Ayutthaya era, where seekers of serenity and spirituality can pay their respects to the revered Luang Phor Yim. After soaking in the temple’s tranquil ambiance, most visitors find themselves irresistibly drawn to the nearby giant red tent that houses the vibrant Tha Ka Rong Temple Floating Market, a feast for both the senses and the soul! Divided into two enticing zones, the market’s OTOP Zone on solid ground showcases an array of local treasures, from handcrafted goods to delightful souvenirs that tell a story of the region. Meanwhile, the floating market is a feast for the eyes, where colourful boats line the banks, each brimming with delectable food and snacks, creating a veritable culinary parade along the waterway.

Grab a prime spot to sit and savour your tasty finds while sharing an afternoon with the local fish, tossing them morsels from your meal. As you breathe in the fresh air and soak in the stunning riverside view, you can’t help but relax and enjoy the unpretentious charms of the community.

What sets this place apart is the intoxicating variety of local dishes that beckon from every corner. If you’re lucky, your visit will coincide with a lively Likay performance – a captivating folk theatre tradition that bursts to life during festivals and long holidays. And don’t forget to explore the charming museum-like-centre showcasing the exquisite costumes used in these vibrant performances; they are works of art in themselves!

As for the culinary highlights, be sure to tantalise your taste buds with boat noodles served in a cute coconut shell, delightfully savoury olive salad, mouth-watering salted silver barb fish, soft and sweet toddy palm steamed cakes, and crispy Vietnamese savoury crêpes. Each bite is a delicious glimpse into the culinary heart of the community!

Open Saturday-Sunday 9am-5pm, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya District, Ayutthaya; www.facebook.com/WatThaKaRongFloatingMarket

Photos: Tha Ka Rong Temple Floating Market

Ancient Grandeur

At the heart of the Chao Phraya River basin lies the historic city of Ayutthaya, a former capital that was once the epicentre of Siamese culture and administration. This magnificent city thrived for 417 years from the 14th to the 18th centuries, leaving behind a rich legacy that continues to captivate visitors to this day. As capital of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, this metropolis was a hub of progress, independence, and tradition. Its grandeur is still palpable in the remnants of the old city, which now serve as a testament to its glorious past. The ruins of ancient temples, palaces, and places of worship stand as sentinels, whispering stories of a bygone era. The province is also dotted with archaeological sites, relics, and inscriptions that offer a glimpse itno the lives of its former inhabitants.