A Quiet Walk to Remember

Words Anutra Ungsuprasert
Photos Thalay Thammapakkul, Anutra Ungsupraset, Shutterstock

They say life is slow in Luang Prabang. You can’t imagine how slow until you get there. This lovely UNESCO World Heritage city, and a former Lao capital, still stands regal in its peacefulness – the way it’s been for many years.

My visit to Luang Prabang last September – rainy and not quite satisfactory – meant a return trip to this sunny land was required. But another reason that pulled me back was missing the elephant sanctuary on my last trip. I was told the slow, meditative communion with these large giants somehow fits well with Luang Prabang’s mood. So several months later, I head back, determined to walk shoulder to shoulder with the elephants.

Staying at Rosewood Luang Prabang property, a 10-minute drive from town, is very relaxing. It feels like being in one of Rudyard Kipling’s adventures. The resort is nestled in a lush forested valley split down the middle by a waterfall and the river it feeds. All rooms are named after a famous person with a historical connection to Southeast Asia, and a view of the Nam Dong river. You hear its dancing flow while crickets chirp and birds sing.

Later, I walked to the higher point of the property where hilltop tented rooms sit. The luxurious white glamping tent-design rooms afford an impressive view of the property, evoking a sense of camping in the woods. What it’s like being a real explorer? To sleep in the woods, or simply stay radically basic like our ancestors? I dream on and wonder what it was like when this land was once called Lanxang, the land of a million elephants. I envision kings riding on the majestic animals as their ‘workhorse’ during the war.

Nowadays, only about 400 exist in the wild, and another 400 to 500 in captivity. But a non-profit organisation aims to increase the elephant population in this country. The “Lao Elephant Initiative” is a collaboration between Michael Vogler, an Environmental Sciences graduate from Portland State University in the USA along with his friend, and a veteran elephant expert from Thailand, Mr. Prasop Tipprasert. All share a passion for wildlife preservation, with Mr. Prasop having worked in Thailand’s elephant population for 27 years with his pioneering project at Chiang Mai University.

Nicknamed “Jane & Tarzan” in Thailand, the programme reintroduces elephants to each other in a natural environment. They send “Jane” into the jungle where she finds “Tarzan”, they honeymoon for 2 months and hopefully have a baby. After 2 and a half years in a sanctuary, the elephants are sent back to the jungle – a national park or “university”. The mission in Laos is the same, to increase the number of elephants.

But before I visit the elephant sanctuary, I touch base with historic Luang Prabang. Staying near the Nam Khan river, I grab a hotel bike and go into the historic district, passing the 100-metre-high Mount Phousi on my way, the most popular hiking summit for sunrise and sunset views with the golden temple of Wat Chom Si at its top. At the foot of the hill sits the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre which exhibits the district cultures of various ethnic groups. Next to it is the famous gilded Wat Xieng Thong, dating back to the 16th century.

I paddle along the riverside where Nam Khan meets the Mekong. From there I make a stop at the Luang boat pier, rather than cross the Mekong river to Pak Ou Caves packed with more than 4,000 Buddha images, I take a boat to see Xangkhong village and their handicraft products. Apart from disappointing touristy craft shops, the boat ride isn’t that bad. I have a chance to gaze at life along the river, watching the fishermen’s catch of the day and water buffaloes working the rice fields.

When my stomach grumbles, I give Bouang restaurant a try, with its fusion Laotian food. The restaurant is located almost at the end of the Sisavangvong Road where rows of restaurants lie. The food at Bouang is pretty lovely and delicious. They have their own version of Mango Sticky Rice – different from Thailand and elsewhere – they use purple sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, rolled in black & white sesame and fresh grated coconut.

I ride back down the restaurant lane where I enter into a small entrance of an old temple sitting behind bar and restaurant shop houses next to Wat Siphoutthabath temple. Inside, a group of young novices work and restore the walkway. Other people dry hundreds of pieces of white flour on bamboo covered with newspapers. “It’s called Khanom Khee Noo (fried flour snack) that you see selling on streets. After the flour batter is deep fried, they will be golden, sweet, and a bit salty, crispy,” the snack vendor guarantees.

I go back to my favourite night market. Last time, I bought some interesting cloth wristwatches made from handmade strips and beautiful graphically textiles. Even though it looks pretty much the same, but there is some thing that draws people to come back – the atmospheric lighting, the smell of street food and people’s laughter.

This time, I’m drawn into a small alley, the first one on the left when you cross the road from the post office. It is jam-packed with local food stalls – grilled Mekong fish, pork ribs, chicken and papaya salad. It was surprisingly unattractive with a black papaya that was longer and wider than what I know. Its appearance may have looked good, but there’s no telling with the taste! Everything, especially the pork ribs are made fresh, juicy and grilled medium well. mouth-watering indeed.

Anyway, I keep the best for last – my big day with the elephants. I wake up early in the morning and our local guide takes me and nine other people in van. Only 30 minutes away is MandaLao, the non-riding elephant sanctuary. As the name suggests, guests aren’t given any chance to ride on the calm creatures.

MandaLao just turned two years old, founded by an American, Michael Vogler. He and his friend moved to Laos and started eco-tourism activities under “MandaLao Tours” and at the same time save the elephants with the “Lao Elephant Initiative”.

Recently, there are 9 elephants at the sanctuary – 8 females and a 2 and a half years old male, named Mr. Kit or Mr. Tarzan Junior, who was born through the reintroduction programme.

Mr. Prasop, the Thai elephant conservationist, told us the orientation, “No babies, no future. I helped the elephant population in Thailand increase by 7% each year. I want to do the same in Laos.” For Mr. Prasop, saving these animals is not just for the animals themselves.

“I cannot just say, please save the elephants because they are cute. They bring us rain, oxygen, reduce global warming, etc. Each of them eat 200-250kg every day and return more than half of the nutrients back to the ground. They eat for us – they make the ground more fertile, and the fertile soil gives us food,” he said, before sending all of us to join the elephants in the sanctuary.

Ten of us are taken on a boat crossing to the other side from the reception point. A few minutes later, we found ourselves standing, feeling so tiny, close to 3 elephants-43-year-old Kham, 50-year-old Marn, and 43-year-old Pheng – with loads of bananas. We begin to assess each other, but they just love us because we have tons of bananas for them.