A Trayful of Northern Tradition

Savour the Khantoke experience – where Lanna food, craft and culture unite

Words: Sarita Urupongsa
Photos: Shutterstock

Shared on a beautifully crafted wooden tray, the classic northern Thai Khantoke meal is more than just food – it’s a centuried-old Lanna ritual rooted in heritage and hospitality. A symbol of community and culture, the Khantoke meal brings people together at both daily family dinners and special ceremonies.

Once a humble household custom, this dining tradition has evolved into a proud emblem of Lanna heritage.

The Khantoke is a circular pedestal tray made of wood or woven rattan, coated with black lacquer or red ochre for a sleek, elegant finish. While its Central Thai and Northeastern cousins – the Samrap and Pha Khao trays – share a similar structure, the Khantoke is uniquely Northern in its design and purpose.

From Daily Furniture to Cultural Icon

Northern Thais traditionally gathered on the floor around a Khantoke laden with savoury dishes and sweet treats. After the meal, the entire tray could be cleared in one go – a practical solution that grew into a beloved tradition.

Today, the ritual of Gin Khao Laeng Khantoke – or evening meal around a Khantoke – is a living symbol of Lanna hospitality and tradition.

A typical spread comprises at least five dishes that offer a harmonious balance of textures and tastes. The menu may include a curry like the herbal Gaeng Om or the rich, slow-cooked Hang Lay pork curry, spicy dips like Nam Phrik Ong or Laab (fiery minced meat salad) accompanied by fresh vegetables or crispy pork rind (Khaeb Moo), grilled meats, fish, and the Northern spiced sausage – Sai Ua. The ever-present star of any Khantoke meal, however, is sticky rice (Khao Nueng). This is eaten by pinching off a small piece and rolling it into a ball with your fingers before dipping it in the dishes – no forks required.

Bearing Status and Craftmanship

Khantoke trays come in different sizes and design, often reflecting the status of the household. The large Khantoke Luang, measuring 25-40 inches in diameter, is reserved for royal courts or grand religious ceremonies. The medium-sized Khantoke Ham (17-24 inches) is used by monasteries or prominent families, while the small Khantoke Noi (10-15 inches) is favoured by ordinary households for serving food to monks or guests.

These trays are still handcrafted by artisans, often using aged rain tree (Chamchaa) wood chosen for its durability and fine grain. The wood is smoothed with the wet-sanding method to reveal its grain, before being painted with natural dyes. The tray’s rim is then decorated with spirals, figure eights or Lai Kham (gold on lacquer) patterns, crafted using lime, tree resin and black oil paint for a mother-of-pearl-like finish. High-end trays may be gilded or inlaid with coloured glass, turning dinnerware into art.

The communities of Baan Tong Kai Nuea and Baan Tawai in Chiang Mai continue to preserve this craft, creating trays for both ceremonial use as well as souvenirs.

Living History

Thailand is famous for its hospitality, and nowhere is it more deeply felt than in the North, where guests are invited to sit on floor cushions around a Khantoke tray brimming with local delicacies.

Khantoke dining remains a living tradition in the North, observed during weddings, merit-making ceremonies and rituals, or to honour special guests. It has also beome popular at cultural shows and restaurants, where the true highlight often comes between bites – in the form of traditional dance performances known as Forn, which reflect the soul and history of Lanna culture.

Forn, which means “to dance” in the Northern dialect, is characterized by delicate finger movements, graceful arm gestures and swaying rhythmically to the cadence of music played on traditional string instruments like the Salo, So and Sueng.

Khantoke evenings may showcase several styles of Forn, including the candle dance (Forn Thien) that showcases performers’ care and grace while holding lit candles; Forn Khan Dok, where dancers carry ornate Lanna trays brimming with flowers; Forn Daab (the sword dance), rooted in ancient martial arts and usually performed by men; and Forn Sao Mai or the silk weaving dance, which depicts the various processes of silk weaving.

Once reserved for the royal court or sacred ceremonies, these dances have become cherished emblems of northern Thailand’s cultural legacy, and when paired with a Khantoke meal, they form a powerful symbol of the North’s warmth, creativity and enduring spirit of hospitality.

On the Hunt for Khantoke

Treat yourself to a traditional Khantoke dining experience at these cultural venues (reservations recommended):

Old Chiangmai Cultural Centre

Opened in 1971, this popular venue serves nine authentic dishes on a traditional Khantoke, accompanied by classical Lanna music and dance.

185/3 Wua Lai Rd., Haiya, Mueang district, Chiang Mai; oldchiangmai.com

Khum Khantoke

Popular among tourists seeking a taste of traditional Northern Thai culture, this Lanna-style restaurant offers an authentic ambiance with cross-legged floor seating and traditional Lanna dance and music performances.

132 Huay Kaew Rd., Chang Phueak, Mueang district, Chiang Mai; khumkhantokechiangmai.com/khumkhantok

Benjarong Khantoke

This restaurant offers the classic Khantoke experience with specially curated live performances – though diners sit a low tables with leg space for extra comfort.

101 Moo 15, Baan Sai Kham, Chiang Mai; www.facebook.com/Benjarongkhantoke

Sabunnga

Enjoy a traditional Khantoke banquet in a friendly laid-back atmosphere, complete with live Lanna music and cultural dance shows.

Sabunnga Hostel, 226/50-55, Rop Wiang, Mueang district, Chiang Rai; www.facebook.com/sabunngachiangrai