Deep Enlightenment

Phayao’s Candlelight Procession on Water brings a sunken Lanna temple to life, illuminating centuries of faith and tradition

Words Sarita Urupongsa
Photos Phayao Cultural Office and The Public Relations Department of Phayao

Looking for a travel experience that weaves together history, spirituality, and breathtaking scenery? Head to northern Thailand, where thrice a year the tranquil waters of Phayao come alive with candlelight, chanting, and a unique cultural spectacle.

While cities like Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai dominate the northern tourist trail, Phayao remains a well-kept secret – its quiet lakeside streets brimming with authentic charm and the relaxed rhythms of traditional life.

However, three times a year, this town nestled among misty mountains is transformed by the luminous beauty of an iconic ritual: the Candlelight Procession on Water.

Imagine gliding across a serene lake beneath a canopy of stars, your candlelight flickering on the water’s surface amid a silence broken only by the gentle splashing of oars. This is Wian Thian Klang Nam – Candlelight Procession on Water – a unique Buddhist tradition found only in Phayao. First held in 2008, this enchanting floating ceremony is now a cherished annual rite celebrating its 17th anniversary this year.

Phayao’s Candlelight Procession attracts visitors not only for its breathtaking visual beauty but also for the spiritual calm it brings to both participants and spectators. Candle-lit boats glide slowly around the lake in a graceful ritual that invites reflection. Many describe it as a spiritual pause – a time to reconnect with their inner lives as the glowing scene unfolds. For those used to the rush of modern life, the ceremony offers a rare tranquillity born not just of silence, but also a shared spiritual intention.

Light and water carry profound symbolic meanings in Buddhism.

The light from candles or lanterns held by worshippers represents wisdom, enlightenment, and the dispelling of ignorance. Water symbolises purity, clarity, and the ever-changing flow of life. When these two elements are mingled, the Candlelight Procession becomes a richly layered expression of spiritual aspiration.

In traditional candlelight processions held across Thailand, participants walk three times around the temple to honour the “Triple Gem” – the Buddha (the teacher), the Dhamma (the teachings), and the Sangha (the monkhood). In doing so, the ritual becomes a conscious vow to uphold these values in their lives. This meditative experience can be deeply moving, especially for visitors unaccustomed to seeing devotion expressed in such a visually poetic way.

In Phayao, the candlelight procession isn’t held on foot but aboard boats that circle Wat Tilok Aram, an ancient temple submerged in the middle of Kwan Phayao (Lake Phayao). This sacred landmark boasts a long and prestigious history, dating back six centuries to the reign of King Tilokkarat in the Lanna Kingdom when it was established on dry land by royal decree.

The temple and surrounding rice paddies were submerged when the Ing River was dammed in the 1930s, creating a reservoir that is now the largest freshwater lake in northern Thailand. In 1983, local fishermen netted relics and ancient artefacts from the lake around the temple, including a much-revered sandstone Buddha image known as Luang Pho Sila. The statue was temporarily relocated to Sri Umong Kham Temple before being returned to its original site in 2007, turning the submerged temple into a new pilgrimage landmark.

Phayao’s candlelight procession is held on three sacred occasions each year – Makha Bucha Day in February, Visakha Bucha Day in May, and Asalha Bucha Day in July. The thrice-yearly ritual begins at dawn with devotees offering alms to monks and culminates under moonlight with the magical procession across the lake. The boats paddle around the temple three times before worshippers disembark to pray at the foot of Luang Pho Sila. More than 70 vessels join the procession, turning the lake into a shimmering spectacle of candlelight and devotion, while a strong focus on safety encourages both locals and visitors to climb aboard.

Along with its spiritual side, the floating festival provides a joyful showcase of northern Thai culture, with traditional Lanna performances, live music and dance theatre. Foodies can also browse endless stalls lining the lake, piled high with local and regional delicacies.

Beyond its surface splendour, the Candlelight Procession on Water stands as a powerful expression of Phayao’s deep ties with its ancient spiritual roots. It reveals how faith can adapt, endure and even flourish amid changing landscapes. From a submerged temple uncovered by chance to a region-wide celebration of devotion, Phayao’s unique waterborne rite is a testament to the resilience of tradition and the pull of the spiritual.

For locals, this festival is more than a visual spectacle – it is a living tradition through which sacred values are passed on to the younger generation, ancestral ties are honoured, and memories of the Lanna Kingdom are kept alive. Each year, community leaders, monks, artists and families come together to prepare, participate in and preserve the essence of this precious ritual.

For visitors seeking a truly unforgettable cultural experience, Phayao’s Candlelight Procession on Water offers a unique journey into the heart of Thai history and spirituality.

LOCATION: Tilok Aram Temple, Wiang, Mueang district, Phayao
GETTING THERE: Boats are available year-round from 7.30am to 5pm at Kwan Phayao Pier, for the 15-minute ride to the submerged temple.

Where Lanna Culture Lives on 

Phayao Lake (Kwan Phayao) was formed when the Ing River was dammed in the 1930s, submerging vast swamplands and reshaping the landscape. Lanna people have lived along these riverbanks for centuries, their tradititions and livelihoods fed by the life-giving water. Today, these communitities stitill thrive in the 1,900-hectare river basin known as the Kwan Phayao area.